Road Trip Part One

Posted by John

We came to New Zealand to sit out the cyclone season, do some work on the boat and see some of the country. But boat work is never done. Each project just leads to more. And apparently, New Zealand is not entirely immune to cyclones, either.

The first cyclone to affect us, Fehi, dropped a ton of rain and delayed getting our bottom painting finished. Flooding and slides (they call them slips, here) closed a few roads. But it was cyclone Gita that had the bigger impact. It hit Samoa, then, sadly, according to the UK Daily Mail, pretty much destroyed one of our favorite places—Big Mama’s, on Pangaimotu island in Tonga, not to mention the heavy damage to the Nuku’alofa waterfront. It’s hard to think about that, having just passed through there, enjoying it so much.

The crazy thing about Gita was the “S” turns it took across the ocean, going first one way, and then back another, until it was aiming right at the middle of New Zealand. No longer a tropical cyclone, but still a cyclone all the same, the weather forecasts were getting more serious. Spurred on by already scheduled appointments in March, including the marina shuffling us from one slip to another, we decided that if we were going to do our road trip at all, we should get as far south as we could, as quickly as we could. Loading up our tiny car was like figuring out a Chinese puzzle. Then we left for Wellington, with an overnight campout along the way, and took the ferry across Cook Strait in the dark.

We made it as far as Christchurch before the storm hit. Instead of being south of the storm, luck would have it we were right in it’s path. The government declared a state of emergency in Christchurch just prior to our arrival, and we heard warnings that “Trampers, campers and boaties” should evacuate Marlborough Sound, on Cook Strait.

Christchurch is on the east coast, and Gita was approaching from the west, so no one was too worried about high wind where we were, but there was a substantial amount of rain for two days which caused some flooding. We spent those two nights in a motel, with one day shopping in Christchurch, and the other day getting our brakes fixed. However, Christchurch, and the highway we took to get there, were heavily damaged in a 2014 earthquake. The highway along the coast is still being rebuilt. We had gone through many construction zones to get to Christchurch, and now we were learning that the road was closed again, with new slips. We were happy to have gotten through before the closures. If all that wasn’t crazy enough, hitting New Zealand briefly broke up Gita into TWO storms. But, that was, finally, the end of Gita.

The sun came out, we put on our sunnies, and continued south. If nothing else, New Zealand is certainly scenic.

New Zealand is ovines and bovines wherever you look
South of Lake Taupo the landscape changes to open, mostly treeless hills
Highway along the coast near Kaikoura
Still raining as Gita leaves Christchurch
High, open country near Burkes Pass
Gita brought fresh snow, Lake Tekapo
Lake Tekapo area
Lake Pukaki and Mt. Cook, tallest in New Zealand
Campsite at Lake Pukaki
In Oamaru, on the Pacific coast
Odd, spherical boulders coming out of the hillside at Moeraki Beach
Part of the city of Dunedin
Another bend in the road, another sweeping view
Cows with a million dollar view
Another nice beach
The south end of the South Island, at Bluff, NZ

No Title

Posted by John

It was bound to happen. After doing this for a while, sooner or later it has to be inevitable (right?) that there would be a post with no title.

Because—between rain storms—we painted the bottom of the boat blue, I thought about calling it “Boatyard Blues.” I also thought about calling it “Boat of Many Colors” because before the final two coats of blue ablative anti-foul paint, we put on two coats of gray (silver-ish) primer/sealer, followed by a bright red, hard, anti-foul “indicator” coat.

The purpose of the indicator coat is, if you start to see red on the boat bottom, it’s time to repaint the blue. We had the bottom wiped and scraped and scrubbed so many times on the way down here that we were afraid there wasn’t much anti-fouling paint left. So we power sanded the bottom and, at $200 to $300 per gallon, and one to two gallons per coat, and three different types of bottom paint, we spent our cash stash and painted, painted, painted.

We also worked on a permanent fix to the water that finds its way inside the rudder, gave up, and kicked that can down the road again (mainly because it’s going to take some time to dry out all the water that’s already in there). Since our boot stripe (just above the water line) pretty much peeled off somewhere between Mexico and Tonga, we also completely sanded the rest of that thing off, put primer on, and repainted it. And we had a machine shop make more of the special bolts, including spares this time, that hold the bracket on the rudder for the self-steering system. We know these bolts are only temporary. They are highly susceptible to crevice corrosion. We planned to have the bolts made out of silicon bronze instead of stainless steel, but we were talked out of that by someone who knows more about the steering system than we do. Someday, back home, we’ll find a permanent solution.

We didn’t even get to half our boatyard wish list, but living for more than three weeks on a boat propped up by sticks on dry land in an industrial work zone, and climbing up and down a ladder all day, gets old in a hurry. We didn’t plan to be here three weeks, but we also didn’t plan on all these rain storms, including the former cyclone Fehi. Now they are warning about the potential for a bigger and stronger cyclone Gita.

The fun part of all this was, each time we put a different color on the bottom we’d get lots of compliments on how nice it looked: “Wow, I like the silver.” Then we’d paint it a different color.

Silver, no stripe
Red, no stripe, no rust stain
Dark blue, plus new stripe
Just for fun, I guess, we sanded three layers of old paint off the propeller, reapplied green primer, then new white anti-foul
The view from our house on stilts, about half the time we were there